Don’t matter if these sound reasonable or out of this world, the following three notions are myths. Thank goodness for KookCast or else you might’ve gone astray! Let’s take a look at a summary of this podcast.
Surfing Myth #1: You Can Learn to Surf in a Day
Ha! Not only do we believe its pretty hard to learn ANYTHING in a day, but surfing is one of the hardest things to learn on earth. So settle down tiger and buckle up. This is a long ride and you’re not getting off anytime soon.
As a matter of fact, The Surf Continuum evolved from this notion. That surfing is so hard to learn, rather than trying to give students a full experience in one session, we took a step back and decided to put more attention on less. We’ve found the best progress comes from first having the awareness that you can’t learn everything in a day, and then from putting all your effort and energy into practicing one basic thing with a passion.
Since surfing is just a conglomerate of quick decisions and basic skills, your time in the water is much greater spent with a focus one skill.
Surfing Myth #2: You Need to be Strong to Surf
Ok we get it. You know surfing is pretty hard, you’ve tried it before and every time you were absolutely spent after paddling out. You must need to be stronger, right?
Wrong. You need better technique. How do we know we’re right? Because we’ve surfed with children, and small women that out performed visibly “stronger” surfers. But, why? This is just a principle that you should carry with you through life. In almost all cases we’ve experienced, technique accomplishes more than might and power.
Coach Ev plays devils advocate here and recognizes that there are situations in surfing where being strong will help. In some sessions you may spend more time getting rolled, and hanging onto your board in which case you’ll wish to be strong, and have built up endurance muscles from consistent practice.
But there’s no doubt in our mind…If you’re going to wish for more strength in surfing, wish for strength of heart because muscles can be exercised and developed, but it’s the strong of heart, the perseverant, those with an iron will that improve steadily over time.
Surfing Myth #3: Follow the Crowd to Find Good Surf
Is it because you’re new and don’t know where to paddle out otherwise? Are you nervous about exploring new peaks that other surfers aren’t on? Whatever the case may be, try your best not to follow the crowd just because it seems like the best wave is there.
Funny thing is, where the crowd is doesn’t necessarily mean that’s where the best waves are. That’s the thing about people. Often people go where other people are… just because there are people there! You’ll have to giggle to yourself the next time you witness this “sheep-le” effect from the beach. How a big group of surfers competes with one another for a single peak, when a multitude of other peaks is breaking all around the crowd completely empty and open to anyone who wants it.
There’s a special feeling in surfing when you leave the paved lot, take a hike, and find an empty peak and score fun waves all to yourself. Keep your mind on that possibility, and let your eyes wander up and down the beach next time you find yourself standing in front of your local name brand surf spot and the whole town is on it. Be the one who finds a different wave and doesn’t let the growing crowds in surfing get in your way.
Tune in to hear Coach Chris and Coach Ev drop a little hint on one way to score some epic little waves to yourself!