Surfing’s very own and only surf historian gets on the horn with Coach Chris to have a casual chat about learning how to surf, The Encyclopedia of Surfing, life after surfing, and of course, his kook-iest moment. Now be a dear and donate to ensure we don’t lose this invaluable resource: eos.surf/donate.
Calm in the chaos speaks to the notion that despite what’s going on around you, you can maintain a steady mindset and be the same surfer regardless of how chaotic conditions may be.
Coach Chris and Coach Ev linking up this week to talk about best practices for learning how to surf.
Always a banger when we get a proper legend on the show ! Tune in as Coach Chris and Coach Ev get to know the first surfing world champ a little better.